Thursday, October 31, 2013

Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, Bayon, Ta Prohm and Phnom Bakheng temples


More on Day 1: After seeing the amazing sunrise at Angkor Wat we rushed back to guesthouse for coffee and breakfast. It was time to head out into the humidity to check out the sights. First we returned to Angkor Wat itself, with its looming lotus bud towers. This site is surrounded by a 190m wide moat. The blocks were quarried 50km away! On the way in there are two libraries at the western entrance. Here is Kristi in one of the windows with Angkor Wat in the background.


Surrounding the lower terrace are a series of incredible Bas-Reliefs. The one Charles is looking at is the Battle of Kurukshetra from the Hindu epic, Mahabharata. There are infantry portrayed fighting in the lower part with officers in chariots and on elephants above them and chiefs displayed at the top. The detail is amazing! and the sheer size of the relief. The entire wat is surrounded by these reliefs. Most of them were made in the 12th century.


These asparas known as devadas, or heavenly nymphs or goddesses, were typical reliefs found near the corners of buildings.


From the southwestern side of the second level, we were afforded a nice view of the entire third/upper level. It was a good day to find the shady sides. Whew! We're still acclimating to the tropical heat and humidity.


After mounting a VERY steep set of stairs we made our way up with the crowds into the third, uppermost, level.


We hopped back in the tuk tuk (locally known as remorks) and our driver, Ngon, took us to the huge site of Angkor Thom. It's 10 sq km! built by Angkor's greatest king, Jayavarman VII. It's enclosed by an 8m high, 12km long wall and surrounded by a 100m wide moat. At it's height it may have supported up to one million people. We walked through across the southern bridge passing an elephant along the way before entering the southern gate. Ngon picked us up on the other side of the gate and we proceeded to Bayon.



Bayon is a collection of 54 Gothic-style towers bearing 216 smiling faces of Avalokiteshvara (bodhisattva who embodies the compassion of all Buddhas), but apparently closely resembles the king himself. No ego there, right? 


Sometimes, we'd turn a corner and get a glimpse of something special.



Here is Kristi looking out of a window in the upper tier. The outer terrace was surrounded by Bas-Reliefs, much like those found at Angkor Wat. However, these had been exposed to the elements and has faded and dissolved with time.


All over were raucous Red-breasted Parakeets (Psittacula alexandri). This pair were working on a nest cavity in the canopy above.


After passing through Baphoun (the 300,000 stone jigsaw puzzle), we made our to Ta Prohm. This site is currently being restored and many of the trees can still be found with buttresses draping over the crumbling sides of terraces and buildings.


Built in 1186, Ta Prohm was a Buddhist temple dedicated to the mother of Jayavarman VII. It is chalked full of temples, courtyards and corridors, many of which are blocked by the rubble of collapsed ceilings and walls.

They say this is a tomb-raider type temple - being reclaimed by the forest



We finished the day with a climb up the hill to reach the temple of Phnom Bakheng. With hundreds of other tourists, we made our way to a favorable corner of the temple top to catch a glimpse of Angkor Wat at sunset. We were rewarded for our efforts with a few shots of egrets passing in front of Angkor Wat on their way to their night roost.


Egrets over Angkor Wat


And this was only Day 1...


Wednesday, October 30, 2013

Angkor Wat sunrise and breakfast

The morning of Day 1: Wasting no time, we had a 4:15 wake up call this morning to hop on a tuk-tuk and go see Angkor Wat at sunrise. We were already wide awake at 3 a.m. ... for once the time change/jet lag thing worked in our favor!   Sunrise, the temple silhouette, the crescent moon, the rays of sun beaming above.  All of it was out-of-this-world amazing.  Our tuk-tuk driver Ngon (prounounced "noon") brought us back to the Firefly guesthouse for breakfast (town is only a few kilometers from Angkor).  Then back to the reserve to check out the "short tour" which lasted until the hike to see sunset at the top of Phnom Bakheng temple.  Cost:  $16. (The 3-day park pass was $40).  I think we sort of love it here...

Just can't get over how incredible and beautiful this is

Crescent moon right above the temple.

Blooming lilypads

Sunrise rays.


I posted this on Facebook and Jane said I look like a photojournalist. :))

Charles taking a sunrise photo

The colors just don't come through in photos

Interior entrance to Angkor Wat

Firefly guesthouse, $15 a night w/ wifi, breakfast. A 20-minute ride to Angkor Wat 

...and a cool rooftop restaurant/bar too


Tuesday, October 29, 2013

Hong Kong, Singapore, Da Nang...and Siem Reap

Long day of travel (14 hour flight from SF to Hong Kong - wine helped). A beautiful sunrise that lasted forever as we traveled west this morning (photo below). The second photo is the route map coming into Hong Kong. We love Singapore air - the flights were beautiful. Can't wait to see Siem Reap later today...

 Dirty windows but otherwise beautiful sunrise

Love waking up and checking our progress --on Singapore Airlines.

We're now in Siem Reap (yeay!) and looking forward to a beautiful night's sleep.  We flew over the mighty Mekong (pictured below), landed during a beautiful sunset on Tonle Lake, sailed right through immigration with a handy e-visa, loved the wood burn/lake smell in the air.  All around awesome. Especially the tuk-tuk ride from the airport through town...and now an awesome guesthouse... (tee hee hee).

 The mighty Mekong River

 We're already half asleep in the tuk-tuk

Sunset turning final approach to Siem Reap/Angkor airport 

Monday, October 28, 2013

Time for a little Cambodia and Thailand

At the airport and about to take off. We...are...going...to...CamBODIA!  (and then Thailand)...wow.  Leaving  San Francisco at 1 a.m. connecting in Singapore and arriving in Siem Reap/Angkor in Cambodia at 5:30 p.m. on the 30th.  (Cambodia is 13 hours ahead right now).

So...SE Asia...it's a first. Never been to that side of the world before and looking forward to expanding my universe, learning new cultures and languages, and exploring the spirituality of the temple sites, mountains, a lantern festival, and the beautiful beaches.  I'll be posting a lot of photos and stories so I'm looking forward to taking you all with us on a great SE Asia "EDventure".  (We are and will be thinking a lot about you Ed Tom and the lessons you've taught us. You are with us too.  And thinking of Sara and my family all the time).

Love to you, my friends and family.
Kristi